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Grandeur of Royal Barges on Bangkok's River of Kings
06 Nov 2003
Thailand's Royal Barges at Night

An extraordinary spectacle has once again taken place on the Chao Phraya river in Bangkok, driving hundreds if not thousands of Thai spectators and visiting tourists to the River Of Kings in Thailand.

Offering a rare honor to the visiting world leaders at the Apec summit, the unique Royal Barges procession floated in a before unseen grandeur on the River Of Kings in Thailand. Normally only reserved for Royal Ceremonies, His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej of Thailand had his Royal Barges sail out to commemorate the 2003 Apec summit held in Bangkok.

The last time the Royal Barges procession had been seen in Thailand was on the occasion of King Bhumibol's 72nd birthday anniversary in the year 1999.

Thai historians are divided on the origin of the Royal Barges, some argue that they are originally of Khmer origin, as identical barges, depicting the same mythological creatures, where found on ancient sandstone engravings of Angkor Wat. Naga serpent heads and Hamsa creatures where typical Khmer mythological animals. Other historians suggest that is was the Indian settlers who brought the tradition of the Royal Barges to Thailand.

The grandeur of Royal Barges in Thailand, is one of the last remains of the historical times which produced spectacular pageant processions in the region. The earliest historical evidence found, concerning the Royal Barges, goes back to the Sukhothai period in Thailand's history, which mentions the mythological names of some of the Royal Vessels participating in Royal Ceremonies performed for the Kings of Sukhothai.

During ancient times, Royal Barges in Sukhothai (Thailand) were given names such as "Rua Prathinang Praphat Saeng Chan" (the Royal Barge for Appreciation of the Moonlight), "Rua Prathinang Chai Chalerm Tharanin" (Royal Barge of Victory over the Land); and "Rua Prathinang Chai Sinthuphiman" (Royal Barge of Victory over the Celestial River).

After Sukhothai was abandoned and Ayutthaya became the capital (1350-1767) the Royal Barges were mostly used as warships in many waterborne battles against the Burmese invaders. In 1684, King Narai the Great of Ayutthaya welcomed Chevalier de Chaumont, the ambassador of the French King Louis XIV, with a Royal Barge procession on the Chao Phraya river in his honor.

During the war with the Burmese, that resulted in the fall of Ayutthaya in 1767, the Royal Barges were lost along with other irreplaceable treasures and records of the Thai Kingdom. When King Chulalok (Rama I) ascended the throne in 1782 and became the first King of the Chakri dynasty, he ordered the restoration of Traditional Thai Arts and Crafts, including the rebuilding of the National Thai Royal barges.

In Thailand's Dynastic Chronicles of the Fourth Reign (1851-68) there is an account of King Mongkut's (Rama IV) undertaking a Royal Tour of Bangkok by water, which followed the traditional land tour of the King.. It is written that the King, seeing that the Royal Barges were never used, felt that a Royal Procession with the Barges on the Chao Phraya river in Bangkok would get him closer to his subjects.

The traditional Royal Barges Procession is accompanied by chanting of Sanskrit origin. There are four chants, that are sung at different times. The chant starts when the barge begins to move and is called "Kroeun Hay", where the Sanskrit verse chants that the beautiful barges are ready to move. The second chant is known as "Chalawa-Hay", it is slow in tempo and is chanted when the barges are gradually moving away from the pier and the oarsmen are still rowing slowly. The third chant is considered to be the most fun by Thais. It is called "Moonla-Hay" and describes the grandeur of the Royal Barges Procession, that's when the oarsmen are having a really good time and are getting into the rhythm of the chant. During this time the Royal barges are picking up their highest speed.

The last Sanskrit chant is about merit-making and is sung as the Royal Barges are to arrive at their destination. Ancient traditions required the chanter to be on the king's barge, seated in front of the King with his hands in a praying position, intoning verses in a quiet, soothing voice. But this ancient tradition has been changed and the chanter now sits in a different barge.

The visiting Apec leaders were treated to a Royal Barges Procession of more than 52 vessels, with the King's four main barges in the leading position. They where the Subanahongsa (Golden Hamsa) royal barge, which refers to the swan-like mythical steed of the Hindu god Brahma, which first appeared in Thailand during the Ayutthaya period. The current Subanahongsa was commissioned on 13 November 1911 and is the barge of the Kong of Thailand.

The Narayana royal barge, featuring the god Vishnu riding on a garuda (a half-man-half-bird mythological figure), was built during the reign of King Nang Klao (Rama III). Having been damaged during the World War II, the current barge was rebuilt and commissioned on 9 May 1996.

The Anekajatbhujonga royal barge stands out as being majestically plain. It bears no figurehead and it is the oldest of the present principal Royal Barges, having been commissioned by King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), who reigned from 1868-1910.

The Anantanagaraj royal barge is second in rank to the Subanahongsa. It has an intricate figurehead in the form of a seven-headed Naga, a mythical serpent that is a symbol of water. It was commissioned on 15 April 1914, during the reign of King Vajiravudh (Rama VI).

  


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